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Engine oil for your GMMG
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daytonajim
Topic author - Site Admin
- Posts: 1843
- Joined: Fri Nov 16, 2012 9:26 pm
- Location: Balsam Lake, WI
- Vehicle: Many GMMG's
- Contact:
@Blackbird34 wrote:@NCGuy68 wrote:Good Info Blackbird 34 - Thanks for posting...
The Key to this topic is Zinc which now days is only added to 'Off Road' and some diesel motor oils.
Why?.. Because Zinc can and will harm Catalytic Converters if they are in place.
I like to use a 50/50 mix of Joe Gibbs racing oil and Castrol GTX.
You are exactly right Craig! Zinc has been removed from almost all "street" oils for some time now. Unless you are daily driving your GMMG, I don't think the zinc additive package in the Racing oils will adversely effect the Catalytic converters enough to worry about. Just my opinion. Racing oils also have a better rust protection for long term storage I'm told. Joe Gibbs Driven LS30 Racing oil is supposedly made specifically for stock and modified GM LS engines.
100 % Correct! Go with the Gibbs LS30 lube for your GMMG car.. :auto-driving:
The Key to this topic is Zinc which now days is only added to 'Off Road' and some diesel motor oils.
Why?.. Because Zinc can and will harm Catalytic Converters if they are in place.
I like to use a 50/50 mix of Joe Gibbs racing oil and Castrol GTX.
You are exactly right Craig! Zinc has been removed from almost all "street" oils for some time now. Unless you are daily driving your GMMG, I don't think the zinc additive package in the Racing oils will adversely effect the Catalytic converters enough to worry about. Just my opinion. Racing oils also have a better rust protection for long term storage I'm told. Joe Gibbs Driven LS30 Racing oil is supposedly made specifically for stock and modified GM LS engines.
100 % Correct! Go with the Gibbs LS30 lube for your GMMG car.. :auto-driving:
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daytonajim
Topic author - Site Admin
- Posts: 1843
- Joined: Fri Nov 16, 2012 9:26 pm
- Location: Balsam Lake, WI
- Vehicle: Many GMMG's
- Contact:
After spending most of the day looking I finally found 24 quarts @ the NAPA warehouse.
$10.19/quart......$263.94 total.......Fun costs money!
It's almost impossible to find Valvoline VR1 Racing oil in my area.
I did learn something........ The silver bottles are more available BUT I wanted the Black bottle PN. 679083....'ADVANCED'
There is a difference. Thanks Aaron for the help.
I now have enough oil to start...... Biggest motored cars will be first.
On the way home I stopped @ Mills Fleet Farm & they had it on sale for $7.99/quart so I grabbed another 24 bottles.
Jim
$10.19/quart......$263.94 total.......Fun costs money!
It's almost impossible to find Valvoline VR1 Racing oil in my area.
I did learn something........ The silver bottles are more available BUT I wanted the Black bottle PN. 679083....'ADVANCED'
There is a difference. Thanks Aaron for the help.
I now have enough oil to start...... Biggest motored cars will be first.
On the way home I stopped @ Mills Fleet Farm & they had it on sale for $7.99/quart so I grabbed another 24 bottles.
Jim
Dick Harrell # 9, 18 (Organic Green) #27 (Vic Edlebrock's) - Bobby Labonte Blackbird #38 - Johnny Benson Berger SS #72 - PE Brickyard PR1 (red) - DHPE#4 Brickyard - silver - DEI #54 - 3 of 4 'real' 2000 Daytona 500 GTP Pace Cars
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daytonajim
Topic author - Site Admin
- Posts: 1843
- Joined: Fri Nov 16, 2012 9:26 pm
- Location: Balsam Lake, WI
- Vehicle: Many GMMG's
- Contact:
I started out the morning complaining & bitching because I was about to change fresh Mobil 1 oil for more fresh Valvoline VR1 oil. WHY?
What a waste of time & money but I needed to put new oil in with 'zinc' like Mike Carnahan suggests.
7 hours to change 2 cars............... real efficient!
I did better when I only had 2 grand kids - now that the third one arrived yesterday I can't do anything.... must be a 'blonde' thing.
E.V. (nickname)
2 Grand daughters 7 weeks apart - Anita - Wesley (21 months) & Sandy
I started on PE #37 (Phase IIX - 475 hp) changing to Valvoline VR1 Synthetic (black bottle) with a new Mobil 1 oil filter. No problem.
Then I pulled PE #11 (2X6-500 hp) on the lift & things went down the tubes!!!!
When I looked at the drain plug it has been ground off to clear the headers & the oil filter clearance was tight too.
Not only was the plug over tightened but the oil filter was so tight It barely loosed up even with a lot of muscle.
The head was all butchered up & there was no way a 15mm wrench was going to work.......... spend an hour going to the Chevy Garage for 2 new oil plugs. The only ones they had didn't have the magnet on the end.
The good news........... PE 11 underside of the car is perfect & has never been in any kind of weather.
Not to worry........... I returned home & spent the next 1 1/2 hours getting the damaged oil plug out with my neighbor. We tried channel locks, hammers, pry bars & finally got it loose.
The next time I will remove the oil filter first before I put a wrench on anything. This time it didn't make any difference.
I just hate it when things are 'Rube-Goldberged' - not done right - 'jury-rigged' & 'morfidited' up. Pretty poor on an expensive car like PE 11.
I had to grind the end off the tip plug because it wouldn't clear the header, took 2 rows of threads off & two of us used a crow bar to finally get in the oil plug threaded into the pan.
And I thought I'd get 4 or more cars done today. NOT!!!! I can turn a simple 2 hour job into 7 or 8 hours now.
I bought 2 plugs because I'm thinking one or more of the other cars will have the same issue???
Weather permitting I'll be taking PE #11 to the All Chevy Show in Stillwater in the morning. 60% chance of rain.
Jim
What a waste of time & money but I needed to put new oil in with 'zinc' like Mike Carnahan suggests.
7 hours to change 2 cars............... real efficient!
I did better when I only had 2 grand kids - now that the third one arrived yesterday I can't do anything.... must be a 'blonde' thing.
E.V. (nickname)
2 Grand daughters 7 weeks apart - Anita - Wesley (21 months) & Sandy
I started on PE #37 (Phase IIX - 475 hp) changing to Valvoline VR1 Synthetic (black bottle) with a new Mobil 1 oil filter. No problem.
Then I pulled PE #11 (2X6-500 hp) on the lift & things went down the tubes!!!!
When I looked at the drain plug it has been ground off to clear the headers & the oil filter clearance was tight too.
Not only was the plug over tightened but the oil filter was so tight It barely loosed up even with a lot of muscle.
The head was all butchered up & there was no way a 15mm wrench was going to work.......... spend an hour going to the Chevy Garage for 2 new oil plugs. The only ones they had didn't have the magnet on the end.
The good news........... PE 11 underside of the car is perfect & has never been in any kind of weather.
Not to worry........... I returned home & spent the next 1 1/2 hours getting the damaged oil plug out with my neighbor. We tried channel locks, hammers, pry bars & finally got it loose.
The next time I will remove the oil filter first before I put a wrench on anything. This time it didn't make any difference.
I just hate it when things are 'Rube-Goldberged' - not done right - 'jury-rigged' & 'morfidited' up. Pretty poor on an expensive car like PE 11.
I had to grind the end off the tip plug because it wouldn't clear the header, took 2 rows of threads off & two of us used a crow bar to finally get in the oil plug threaded into the pan.
And I thought I'd get 4 or more cars done today. NOT!!!! I can turn a simple 2 hour job into 7 or 8 hours now.
I bought 2 plugs because I'm thinking one or more of the other cars will have the same issue???
Weather permitting I'll be taking PE #11 to the All Chevy Show in Stillwater in the morning. 60% chance of rain.
Jim
Dick Harrell # 9, 18 (Organic Green) #27 (Vic Edlebrock's) - Bobby Labonte Blackbird #38 - Johnny Benson Berger SS #72 - PE Brickyard PR1 (red) - DHPE#4 Brickyard - silver - DEI #54 - 3 of 4 'real' 2000 Daytona 500 GTP Pace Cars